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Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
Jacques C.a· Dejean C.a· Klose C.b· Leccia E.c· Bessou-Touya S.a· Delarue A.d· Duplan H.aaPierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique et Personal Care, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Toulouse, France
bLipotype GmbH, Dresden, Germany
cNovitom SAS, Les Ulis, France
dPierre Fabre SA, Lavaur, France
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Article / Publication Details
Received: March 14, 2022
Accepted: January 16, 2023
Published online: February 08, 2023
Number of Print Pages: 15
Number of Figures: 10
Number of Tables: 0
ISSN: 1660-5527 (Print)
eISSN: 1660-5535 (Online)
For additional information: https://www.karger.com/SPP
AbstractIntroduction: The stratum corneum (SC) matrix is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides (CERs), which play a key role in the skin barrier function. Changes in the composition and content of skin lipids will affect the function of the skin barrier. The effect of a glycerol/petrolatum-based emollient (G/P-emollient) cream on the lipid profiles of isolated ex vivo human SC and the SC of a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model was measured. Methods: The spatial organization of the cream and the isolated SC intercellular matrix were studied using X-ray diffraction. The inter-bilayer distances in the multi-lamellar lipid structures and lattice type were analyzed using small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), respectively. Lipidomic analysis using shotgun lipidomics was performed on RHE models to quantify CER classes and chain lengths. This technology enables the analysis of thousands of lipids in a single biological sample. Results: The crystallized components of the cream are lipids, which were mainly packed in orthorhombic lattices, as well as hexagonal lattices and were similar to the SC structure. The cream penetrated the SC but did not alter the WAXS profile. It increased the amount of higher carbon number CERs (>42 carbons) and decreased lower carbon number CERs (<42 carbons). All chain length of CERs and acyl-CER classes (CER EOS, EOH, EOP, EOdS) were increased as the total CER classes. A decrease of the CER C34 for hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated CERs was also observed. The cream altered the S and P CER forms (increased the NP/NS and AP/AS ratios), indicating it could reduce the relative feedback mechanism observed in inflammatory pathologies, for example, atopic dermatitis. The cream increased CER NP, which is decreased in dry skin. Conclusion: G/P-emollient cream may be beneficial for skin pathologies by modifying SC lipids, balancing CER levels and ratios, and improving the barrier function. Importantly, the cream structure mimics that of the SC and penetrated the lower SC layers without compromising its lamellar structure.
© 2023 S. Karger AG, Basel
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Received: March 14, 2022
Accepted: January 16, 2023
Published online: February 08, 2023
Number of Print Pages: 15
Number of Figures: 10
Number of Tables: 0
ISSN: 1660-5527 (Print)
eISSN: 1660-5535 (Online)
For additional information: https://www.karger.com/SPP
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