Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
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Article / Publication Details
Abstract
Introduction: The stratum corneum (SC) matrix is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides (CERs), which play a key role in the skin barrier function. Changes in the composition and content of skin lipids will affect the function of the skin barrier. The effect of a glycerol/petrolatum-based emollient (G/P-emollient) cream on the lipid profiles of isolated ex vivo human SC and the SC of a reconstructed human epithelial (RHE) model were measured.
Methods: The spatial organization of the cream and the isolated SC intercellular matrix was studied using X-ray diffraction. The inter-bilayer distance in the multi-lamellar lipid structures and lattice type were analyzed using small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), respectively. Lipidomic analysis using Shotgun Lipidomics was performed on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) to quantify CER classes and chain lengths. This technology enables the analysis of thousands of lipids in a single biological sample.
Results: The crystallized components of the cream are lipids, which were mainly packed in orthorhombic lattices, as well as hexagonal lattices and were similar to the SC structure. The cream penetrated the SC but did not alter the WAXS profile. It increased the amount of higher carbon number ceramides (> 42 carbons) and decreased lower carbon number ceramides (
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