Noma: from grasshopper brews to age-old ‘garum’

The idea began with Noma co-founder René Redzepi’s incursions into eating insects. Grasshopper exoskeletons, the chefs found, had much in common with shellfish, so the first garum made by the restaurant’s Nordic Food Lab was from grasshoppers. “That was a great success for us as chefs, but at the time we rarely mentioned it,” says Thomas Frebel, creative director in Noma’s test kitchen, because people have misperceptions about it. “They forget that coffee, cheese and wine are fermented.”

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