Combining DNA Barcoding and Chemical fingerprints to authenticate Lavender raw material

Plants authentication is a major issue to ensure sourcing, quality, traceability and transparency of cosmetic products. One of the most widely used plants is lavender. Economically important lavenders in cosmetics, represented by several species, require a reliable botanical identification system. In this study, we combined genetic and chemical analyses to provide the distinction and identification of this biomass known for its multiple properties. Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analyzed, on one hand, by classical phytochemical analysis method and, on the other hand, by an innovative genetic method called Barcoding based on the use of plant genetic signatures. DNA barcoding based on Bold (Barcode of Life Database) markers and specific markers (created for this study) showed sufficient discriminatory power to precisely identify 6 lavender species including one fine lavander and one lavandin. Additionally, the results of qualitative chemical analyses by UHPLC-UV-MS indicated that the chemical compositions of 9 lavender samples were different. The results show that 3 chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are interesting for the differentiation of the species of the genus lavandula. We show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analyses as a breakthrough compared to traditional investigation methods. This study was initiated and performed by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. It demonstrates the reliability of applying combined methods to authenticate and check the traceability of plant raw materials in the manufacture of cosmetics and fragrances.

留言 (0)

沒有登入
gif